Artist Research: Alexander Calder

 In this post I will be discussing the research that I have carried out on Alexander Calder, the jewellery he has made specifically. I will be explaining how this research has influenced my project and the techniques that Alexander Calder was known for.

 

Fig. 1. Alexander Calder, Chainmail Necklace, 1940

 My favourite piece from Calder is the 'Chainmail Necklace', as it is both a piece of clothing and jewellery. Calder did not use any soldering techniques to attach the different aspects of his work to each other, he simply used wire for every piece of work he made (Bazilian, 2022). The chainmail necklace is a piece that consists solely of silver wire rings that one can drape over the body to recreate the look of a chainmail vest, without the added protection of usual chainmail, obviously. The piece looks delicate, however, the size of the necklace makes it a statement piece that could be worn on select occasions only. Jewellery clothing has come a long way since the creation of the chainmail necklace, with full corsets, sleeves and bralettes. These type of jewellery pieces are usually worn over a gown or other type of clothing item, unless the see-through look is desired.

Fig. 2. House of Junon, The Queen Aurora Top, 2024

 The rings in the chainmail necklace inspired my brooch design, where the House of Junon bralettes inspired the shoulder chain. I combined the two with my own style to create a delicate and minimalist brooch design.

In addition to wire rings, Calder used a variety of spirals in his work. He achieved the textured, flat look by using a hammer on a piece of wire. This technique became his signature style (Louisa Guinness Gallery, 2024).

Fig. 3. Alexander Calder, Brooch, 1948

 The spirals in Calder's work directly inspired the use of spirals in my own work, specifically in the Grapevine Necklace.

 Calder's work is bold and includes a variety of shapes with pieces sticking outside of the space of one's body. It leans more into being art than wearable jewellery, which is not my personal style. However, what I did learn from Calder's work is to think further than the body, even if my interpretation of this is subtle. My work is often described as delicate. It is important to me that I continue working on my own style, so it can become recognisable as well. Subtle details are part of that style and whenever I research the work of an artist I try to include aspects of that into the details of my own work.

References:

 Bazilian, E. (2022). The Sculptural Intimacy of Alexander Calder’s Jewelry. [online] Frederic Magazine. Available at: https://fredericmagazine.com/2022/05/alexander-calder-jewelry/ [Accessed 14 Aug. 2024].

Louisa Guinness Gallery (2024). Alexander Calder - Overview. [online] Louisa Guinness Gallery. Available at: https://www.louisaguinnessgallery.com/artists/37-alexander-calder/overview/ [Accessed 14 Aug. 2024].

Image References:

Fig. 1.  Calder, A. (1940). Chainmail Necklace. [Silver Wire] Calder Foundation. Available at: https://calder.org/works/jewelry/chainmail-necklace-c-1940/ [Accessed 14 Aug. 2024]. 

Fig. 2. House of Junon (2024). The Queen Aurora Top. [Gold, Brass, Glass Pearl, Rhinestone and Pearl] House of Junon. Available at: https://hausofjunon.com/products/the-queen-lauraline-crystal-top [Accessed 14 Aug. 2024].

Fig. 3. Calder, A. (1948). Brooch. [Steel and silver wire] Calder Foundation. Available at: https://calder.org/works/jewelry/brooch-c-1948-2/ [Accessed 14 Aug. 2024].